Birth of a Grand Tour
In the early 20th century, national parks were exclusive destinations, primarily accessible to the affluent via costly rail and stagecoach. The advent
of the automobile, however, democratized travel, though the roads within these nascent parks were often rudimentary. Recognizing this gap and the desire to promote public land enjoyment, a group of 12 individuals, representing organizations like the National Park-to-Park Highway Association and AAA, embarked on a monumental 5,600-mile expedition in 1920. Their ambitious loop connected 12 national parks, aiming to generate publicity, encourage tourism, and advocate for the development of drivable roads. This pioneering journey essentially laid the groundwork for the grand national park road trips we know today, making these natural treasures accessible to a much wider audience and highlighting the transformative power of the automobile in American exploration. The route they forged continues to be one of the most compelling ways to witness the nation's public lands.
Rocky Mountain Beginnings
Kicking off this epic sojourn from Denver, the inaugural destination is Rocky Mountain National Park. Back in 1920, travelers navigated the park via Old Fall River Road, the original auto route, which ascends to nearly 12,000 feet and remains a rustic, unpaved experience typically open from July to early October. Present-day adventurers can opt for the significantly more accessible Trail Ridge Road, celebrated as the highest continuous paved road in the United States, offering panoramic alpine vistas. This initial leg sets the tone for the journey, showcasing the evolution of park access and the dramatic natural beauty awaiting explorers. The stark contrast between the early, rugged paths and the modern infrastructure underscores the progress made in opening up these natural wonders to all.
Yellowstone & Glacier Majesty
From the peaks of Colorado, the route steers north via Interstate 25, passing through Cheyenne, Wyoming, before veering east on Highway 14 towards Cody and the legendary Yellowstone National Park. To truly honor the original expedition, consider lodging at the historic Old Faithful Inn and dedicating at least four days to explore the nation's very first national park, renowned for its geothermal wonders and abundant wildlife. Continuing the journey, the path follows the Yellowstone-Glacier Bee Line Highway, winding through White Sulphur Springs, Great Falls, and Browning, ultimately arriving at Montana's Glacier National Park. In 1920, this park was home to roughly 80 glaciers and few proper roads; today, while around two dozen glaciers remain officially cataloged, the park boasts the iconic Going-to-the-Sun Road, an engineering marvel and one of America's most breathtaking scenic drives, offering unparalleled access to its rugged, mountainous terrain.
Pacific Northwest Peaks
The adventure then transitions westward along Montana's Highway 2, leading from Kalispell towards Libby and the Idaho border. This stretch is characterized by expansive national forests before reaching Spokane, Washington. Highway 2 eventually concludes in Seattle, prompting a southward turn towards Mount Rainier National Park. A highlight here is visiting Paradise, situated on the southern slope of the majestic Mount Rainier; travelers today can appreciate the ease of access compared to the mule-team transport of the original tour. From Washington, the route proceeds south through Portland and Eugene, Oregon, leading to the serene Crater Lake National Park. Remarkably, this park has retained much of its 1920 charm. The original group stayed at the picturesque Crater Lake Lodge and traversed the 33-mile Rim Drive, a road that had been completed just the year prior to their visit, offering stunning views of the deep blue caldera.
California's Volcanic Wonders
Continuing south, the journey sets its sights on California, directing travelers towards Redding and the geologically active Lassen Volcanic National Park. This park is unique in that it contains all four types of volcanoes, though the original 1920 travelers did not witness these features as the park lacked roads at the time. Today's visitors, however, can explore its diverse volcanic landscapes with relative ease. Further south, approximately 300 miles beyond Lassen, the awe-inspiring granite cliffs of Yosemite National Park emerge, followed by the towering giant sequoias of Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park. The latter was formerly known as General Grant National Park until 1940, and its colossal trees offer a humbling perspective on nature's grandeur. This part of the trip showcases California's dramatic geological diversity, from geothermal activity to ancient forests.
Southwest Deserts and Canyons
Upon reaching Los Angeles, the route pivots eastward, tracing the path of the historic National Old Trails Road, famously known as Route 66. A significant detour from Barstow leads to Zion National Park in Utah, a journey that the original group bypassed due to time constraints but which is now an essential part of the modern itinerary. After experiencing Zion's majestic canyons, the trip heads back south through Arizona, passing Kingman and Williams before reaching the unparalleled Grand Canyon National Park. The original expedition spent three days exploring this natural wonder, staying at the now-historic El Tovar Hotel, which remains a celebrated lodging option. This segment of the road trip delves into the iconic desert landscapes and geological marvels of the American Southwest, offering vistas that have captivated visitors for centuries.
Ancient Lands and Return
The final leg of this extraordinary journey takes explorers to Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona, followed by a drive through Gallup, Durango, and finally to Mesa Verde National Park, the last stop for the original 1920 group. While the original explorers traversed the narrow and scenic Knife Edge Road at Mesa Verde—a road closed in 1957 due to soil instability—today's visitors can still experience similar breathtaking views by walking the two-mile Knife Edge Trail, which follows a portion of the historic route. From Mesa Verde, the journey concludes by heading back towards Denver, winding through Salida, Pueblo, and Colorado Springs. As Stephen Mather, the National Park Service's first director and a proponent of this route, aptly put it, 'Each park will be found to be highly individual. The whole will be a revelation.' This concluding segment emphasizes the historical significance and the unique cultural heritage preserved within these parks.
Optimal Timing & Logistics
For the best experience on this extensive road trip, late summer into early fall is highly recommended, striking a balance between fewer crowds and open park roads. Aim to visit Rocky Mountain and Glacier National Parks in late August or early September when roads like Going-to-the-Sun and Trail Ridge are typically still accessible. Later in the trip, you can enjoy vibrant early fall colors in southern parks like Zion. While mid-summer offers long daylight hours, expect significant crowds and heavy traffic. Winter and spring are not advisable due to the high probability of encountering ice, snow, and closed roads across the vast 5,000-mile expanse. The original 76-day trek is now achievable in a more manageable four weeks to truly appreciate these natural wonders. Planning is crucial: book accommodations, especially within popular parks like Yellowstone, months, or even a year, in advance. Many parks, including Rocky Mountain and Glacier, require timed entry reservations during peak seasons; always check individual park websites beforehand. Consider purchasing an America the Beautiful annual pass for $80, which grants access to all national parks and federal recreation lands, providing excellent value for this grand adventure.
