Hidden Riviera Gem
Villefranche-sur-Mer, often referred to simply as Villefranche, is a coastal resort town that seamlessly blends into the scenery of Nice. The author, having
lived in the French Riviera for nearly two decades, showcases the allure of Villefranche, a locale that often escapes the notice of those who traverse the coastal roads connecting Nice and Monaco. Despite its proximity to Nice's bustling port district, the town offers a stark contrast, exuding a tranquil vibe, even when cruise ships grace its magnificent bay. Celebrated for its cinematic charm, Villefranche has hosted films like "To Catch a Thief" and "Never Say Never Again," along with scenes for "Emily in Paris" and rumors that the fourth season of "The White Lotus" may film in the area, illustrating its widespread appeal.
Hotels and Resorts
Villefranche-sur-Mer offers a selection of hotels, ranging from historic establishments to modern resorts. The Welcome Hotel, managed by the same family since 1943, is a landmark in Villefranche-sur-Mer. The hotel's quayside terrace is a popular spot for both locals and visitors. Each of the 35 rooms and suites has a balcony with a sea view. The Grand-Hotel du Cap-Ferrat, a Four Seasons Hotel, is an iconic property. Since 1908, this grand property has stood tall at the water’s edge in the neighboring village of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. The resort has Michelin-starred dining options, private villas, and a pool area by the Mediterranean Sea.
Things to Do
Villefranche-sur-Mer is packed with activities. The Citadelle Saint-Elme, built in the 16th century, now houses a garden and art collections. Although the museums are currently closed for renovation, the site itself serves as an open-air art gallery with a busy calendar of exhibitions throughout the year. The Vieille Ville (Old Town) features colorful alleys ideal for photos, particularly along Rue Volti and Rue Baron de Brès, and the Rue Obscure, a covered passageway dating back to the 14th century. La Chapelle Saint-Pierre, adorned with Jean Cocteau's artwork, is another must-see, though visitors are advised not to take photos. Plage des Marinières beach is a favorite, while the Institut de Français, a language school, attracts celebrities and royalty looking to improve their French.
Nightlife Scene
Villefranche-sur-Mer provides a lively nightlife, anchored by venues such as Achill’s, the rooftop bar of a sea-facing restaurant. The bar frequently plays DJ-spun tunes, enhancing the summertime atmosphere. It is a perfect spot to enjoy the best cocktails in the village, expertly crafted with local ingredients, offering a spirited experience for those seeking evening entertainment.
Best Restaurants
The culinary landscape of Villefranche-sur-Mer is distinguished by restaurants. La Mère Germaine has been serving seafood with Mediterranean views since 1938, and is a classic address, known for its bouillabaisse. Mayssa Beach, a rooftop restaurant, provides a scenic setting for special occasions, specializing in seafood dishes, including local varieties like rascasse (scorpion fish) and sea bream.
Best Time to Visit
For an ideal visit to Villefranche-sur-Mer, consider the periods between April and June or September. During these months, the restaurant terraces and boutiques emerge from their winter dormancy before the peak tourist season of summer. The Plage des Marinières beach can get crowded in July and August. La Darse, the historic port, offers an alternative with a small cove that locals prefer for swimming. Winter also offers a unique experience with fewer crowds, while the calendar fills with village fêtes, including February’s Floral Naval Battle.
Getting Around
Villefranche-sur-Mer is easy to reach from Nice Côte d'Azur Airport (NCE) by a 30-minute drive or a 15-minute train ride. The town's old quarter is best explored on foot, while the residential areas are connected by staircases. For those who prefer not to walk, ride-hailing services such as Uber are available, with prices up to 20 euros for a 15-minute journey.
