A Two-Wheel Town
Forte dei Marmi, nestled on the Tuscan coast, offers a unique blend of old-money charm and a decidedly leisurely pace, epitomized by its pervasive cycling
culture. Even on blustery September days, the pine-scented air buzzes with activity, and bicycles are the primary mode of transport. The concierge at Pensione America pointed out the practical design of the town's bicycles, noting the fenders on rear wheels specifically to accommodate women in long skirts, humorously remarking, "This is Forte dei Marmi. Women cycle in heels!" This observation perfectly encapsulates the town's effortless chic. The town's grid layout and broad avenues make it exceptionally easy to navigate on two wheels, whether you're a local resident or a visiting tourist. You'll see people of all kinds cruising on single-speed bikes, casually parking them in charmingly disorganized clusters while they indulge in shopping at high-end designer stores, browse the renowned Sunday market for apparel and home goods, or simply enjoy a cappuccino at one of the town's glamorous cafes. This commitment to cycling isn't just about convenience; it's a core part of the town's identity and its slow-paced charm.
From Marble Port to Glamour Hub
The allure of Forte dei Marmi extends beyond its present-day sophistication, rooted in a rich history that began as a humble fishing village. Its strategic location later transformed it into a crucial port for exporting the renowned Carrara marble, sourced from the nearby Apuan Alps, a fact underscored by the town's historic fort, constructed in 1788 to safeguard these valuable shipments. However, it was in the late 19th century that the town truly began its ascent, attracting the wealthy aristocratic families of Tuscany who established it as their preferred seaside vacation destination. These families began constructing opulent second homes, featuring expansive gardens set back from the picturesque sand dunes and fragrant pine forests. Over the subsequent four decades, the town's magnetism grew, drawing in celebrities, including the late fashion icon Giorgio Armani, who was also once the proprietor of the iconic seafront nightclub, La Capannina di Franceschi, and the celebrated tenor Andrea Bocelli. Additionally, affluent individuals from Russia, Ukraine, and Northern Europe acquired properties, contributing to the town's cosmopolitan character, though recent geopolitical events have seen a reduction in visitors from the Russian-speaking world.
Lidos and Luxe Stays
Beach clubs, known locally as 'lidos,' are the vibrant heart of Forte dei Marmi's social scene, a tradition that began blossoming in the 1920s and 30s along the 'lungomare,' the seemingly endless promenade that hugs the Tyrrhenian Sea. Cycling along this scenic stretch reveals a diverse array of beach clubs catering to every preference: from the sun-worshippers who seek prime beachfront real estate and are willing to pay a premium for it, to the discreet havens designed for celebrities desiring privacy, and special municipal-rate options for the local community. A prime example of Forte's sophisticated hospitality is Pensione America, a luxurious adults-only hotel with 18 rooms, reborn from an 1899 private villa. Its co-owner, Sara Maestrelli, a stylish Florentine with lifelong ties to Forte, shared the hotel's transformation. Once a derelict property with no pool and teeming with cats, it has been meticulously restored. The centerpiece is an emerald-tiled mosaic pool, surrounded by lush lawns dotted with banana palms. Evenings here are magical, with guests enjoying cocktails, like a Negroni, amidst potted orange trees before dining on the bougainvillea-draped terrace. Culinary highlights include spaghetti alle arselle, featuring tiny local clams in a delicate garlic and white wine sauce, and an exquisite tiramisu, perfectly paired with a crisp Vermentino wine.
Villas, Tennis, and Markets
Exploring the tranquil Roma Imperiale neighborhood by bicycle offers a glimpse into the enduring legacy of Forte dei Marmi's original wealthy families, many of whom, including the Maestrellis, still maintain their elegant villas there. During a leisurely morning, the rhythmic 'plock-plock' of tennis balls from numerous nearby courts provided a delightful soundtrack. Pensione America has recently expanded its offerings by taking ownership of Tennis Roma, a historic and stylish club adjacent to the hotel, which was hosting a weekend tournament during the visit. As one approaches the town's pedestrianized center, the magnetic pull of the market, held bi-weekly in the distinctive circular Piazza Marconi, becomes irresistible. This market is particularly celebrated for its exquisite cashmere and leather goods, drawing substantial crowds of both Italians and international visitors. While attempting on a luxurious cashmere coat, an unexpected downpour sent everyone scrambling for shelter in the nearest stalls, sparking lively conversations among the temporary companions. By the time an umbrella vendor arrived, the sun had reappeared, making the cashmere feel too warm. This prompted a quick bike ride back to Pensione's lido, determined to soak up a few more precious rays and perhaps enjoy another paper bag of focaccia before departing from this enchanting Tuscan escape.
