A Bengali Summer Essential
Imagine a scorching summer day in Bengal, and the perfect antidote arrives in the form of aam pora shorbot. This invigorating drink begins with charring
a raw green mango over an open flame until its skin is visibly blistered. After peeling, the smoky pulp is mashed and blended with a touch of ginger, salt, and sugar. This concentrated mixture is then boiled with water to achieve a thick, syrup-like consistency. Once cooled and bottled, this flavourful base is poured into a glass, topped with chilled water, offering a delightful and refreshing escape from the heat. Sharbat, in general, is more than just simple juice; it's juice enhanced with various flavourings like ginger, rock salt, or sugar, elevating it into a truly amped-up beverage.
Ancient Roots of Sharbat
While sharbats are a staple today, their history in India is profound and intricate. The word 'sharbat' itself originates from the Arabic term 'sharb,' signifying a light drink, and was introduced with the advent of Muslims in the second millennium AD. However, India possessed its own traditions of refreshing beverages long before. The natural sweet drink of ancient India was primarily sugarcane juice, often enhanced with ginger. Evidence from Vedic literature and the Arthashastra suggests the use of drinks made with molasses. In South India, traditional drinks called 'panakams,' often featuring tamarind and gooseberry combined with cardamom, ginger, and citrus, are still enjoyed. By 200 BC, these ancient Indian concoctions were prepared by hakims as medicinal drinks aimed at improving digestion and nervous system health, with specific fruits like blackberry and mulberry used for cough relief, and pear for liver support. Even sugarcane juice with certain spices was a remedy for biliousness.
New Flavors Emerge
The arrival of Muslims in India during the second millennium AD ushered in a new era for sharbats, introducing a range of sweet variations. These new preparations were often coloured and infused with fragrant essences such as rose and kevda (screwpine), and even other herbs. During the period of the Delhi Sultanate, a drink called 'fuqqa,' made from barley, was a popular offering. The iconic Rooh Afza, a well-known sharbat, is believed to have been inspired by a creation attributed to the hakim of Mughal Empress Nur Jahan. Legend has it that Nur Jahan, reminiscing about the rose-scented sharbats her mother made in Iran, tasked her hakim with capturing the essence of roses in a bottle, leading to the development of this beloved blend.
Regional Delights and Variations
The beauty of sharbats lies in their immense variety, ensuring there's always a new flavour to explore. In the northern Indian state of Uttarakhand, 'buransh sharbat,' crafted from rhododendron flowers, is a popular choice, reputedly beneficial for digestion. Another distinctive option is 'bela sharbat,' made from jasmine flowers, which are available for only a couple of months during the summer, making it a rare seasonal treat. However, the universally cherished sharbat often remains the one derived from mangoes, whether green or ripe. These mango-based creations truly capture the essence of a hot summer, offering a cool and revitalizing sip that stands out as one of India's most celebrated culinary contributions.
