An Unconventional Start
Rahul Akerkar's foray into the culinary world was far from a direct path. While studying chemical engineering at Franklin & Marshall College in Pennsylvania,
he found himself drawn to the practical experience of working in restaurant kitchens, primarily focusing on Mexican and Italian cuisines. This hands-on apprenticeship continued even as he pursued a master's degree in biochemical engineering at Columbia University. These formative experiences, gained through sheer immersion rather than formal training, laid the groundwork for his future ventures. He first ventured into the Mumbai restaurant scene with 'Under the Over' in Kemps Corner, later assisted in establishing 'Kuteeram' near Bengaluru, and then returned to Mumbai to launch his most acclaimed establishment, Indigo, in 1999. These ventures were characterized by a blend of calculated risks, intuition, and the lessons learned from his diverse experiences, a narrative he later chronicled in his memoir, 'Biting Off More Than I Can Chew'.
From Cookbook to Memoir
The idea for Akerkar's memoir initially began as a simple cookbook during the operational days of Indigo. However, the unexpected pause brought on by the pandemic provided the necessary stillness for introspection. With his new restaurant, Qualia, in Lower Parel facing uncertainty, Akerkar seized the opportunity to reflect on his life and career. Collaborating with his friend Perry Garfinkel, a writer for The New York Times, he began recording conversations that would form the core of his memoir. The initial manuscript was uninhibited, but it underwent significant revisions by a legal team to navigate potential sensitivities concerning government figures or industry disputes. Despite the necessity of trimming certain aspects to ensure continued industry engagement, the resulting narrative powerfully conveys a story rooted in serendipity, instinct, and a career built on momentum rather than a meticulously laid plan, a stark contrast to chefs who often cite familial culinary influences from childhood.
Nurturing a Food Culture
Akerkar's relationship with food was shaped by a diverse upbringing that fostered a pluralistic palate. He candidly admits his mother was not a proficient cook, but it was his paternal grandmother whose influence resonated deeply. Her home, particularly during holidays in Nashik and later Sunday lunches in Bandra, was a source of profound joy through food. The abundant, comforting snacks like ladoos, chaklis, and chivdas served by his ajji instilled in him a deep appreciation for the emotional warmth associated with meals. Complementing this, his maternal grandmother, of German-Jewish heritage, introduced him to a different culinary world, with dishes like steak tartare and pickled herring. This side of the family cultivated an appreciation for culinary exploration without limitations, meaning he grew up accustomed to a wide array of tastes. This multifaceted exposure, marked by both comfort and curiosity, profoundly influenced his perspective on food and its inherent joy, a heritage he thoughtfully incorporates into his signature dishes and personal recipes within his memoir.
The Business of Creation
Akerkar's unique path, a blend of informal culinary education in American restaurants and a culturally rich upbringing, became his professional bedrock. For a considerable period, he felt a sense of inadequacy, hesitating to identify as a 'chef' due to his non-traditional route. This self-doubt lingered until he returned to India. His first establishment, 'Under the Over' in 1992, emerged not from a grand design but from a pragmatic desire to navigate the restaurant business as it unfolded. He attributes much of this initial success to a degree of naivety, suggesting that not fully grasping potential challenges allowed him to proceed. Initially, he focused on authentic cuisine, partly due to a lack of confidence in experimenting. As his comfort and creative confidence grew, fusion naturally became part of his repertoire, inspired by diverse influences like his aunt's 'panchamrut'. While 'Under the Over' and 'Kuteeram' were exploratory, Indigo, launched with a ₹5 crore loan, represented a definitive statement. It entered a Mumbai fine dining scene dominated by formal hotel restaurants, offering a distinct alternative: refined yet accessible, sophisticated yet unpretentious. Indigo's success was built on fundamental principles: genuine hospitality, consistent quality, and meticulous attention to detail in every aspect, from presentation to wine selection and ambiance.
Beyond Indigo's Walls
The decision to step away from Indigo in 2018 was a profoundly difficult but ultimately necessary act of self-preservation. Akerkar describes it as the most challenging decision he has ever made, acknowledging that he should have perhaps done so earlier. The restaurant had become inextricably linked to his identity, but internal dynamics with his partners had soured, creating a toxic environment. Nevertheless, his passion for the culinary world remained undimmed. He continued to explore new ventures, launching Ode, a Mediterranean restaurant, three years prior to the article's context. More recently, he introduced Flint, a 'cuisine agnostic' space centered on charcoal fire cooking within the NCPA complex, and Waarsa, an Awadhi cuisine restaurant, opened a couple of years before. Dismissing fleeting trends with a pragmatic outlook, Akerkar asserts that the core of restaurant success lies in perfecting the fundamentals. He believes diners value authenticity and honesty in their food – dishes that are thoughtfully prepared, showcase respect for ingredients and intention, and avoid an overly ostentatious presentation. He draws parallels to Alice Waters' Chez Panisse and Mumbai's own Thakkar's Bhojanalaya, both celebrated for their consistently simple yet exceptional offerings. While acknowledging the modern necessity of 'Instagrammable' food, as evidenced by the buzz around Ode's opening, Akerkar remains committed to the enduring power of well-executed, heartfelt cuisine.
