The Indonesian Connection
The story begins with a culinary mystery: Did India truly invent idli, or did it come from elsewhere? Renowned food historian KT Achaya proposed that the
answer lies in Indonesia. Between 800 and 1200 CE, Hindu kings from Indonesia often visited South India. They were accompanied by cooks proficient in fermentation and steaming techniques, methods which were less common in India at the time. Evidence suggests that fermented foods like tempeh, and a steamed rice cake similar to idli, were already a part of local Indonesian diets. The Tamil term 'Itali' did not appear until the 17th century. This points to a later evolution of the dish and suggests a blend of culinary traditions. This theory proposes that these royal cooks introduced the method of fermenting lentil and rice batter and then steaming it into soft cakes. This method of preparation was simple, but revolutionary.
Early Indian References
While the Indonesian link is compelling, some evidence points to India's early culinary practices. The 920 AD Kannada text 'Vaddaradhane' mentions 'Iddalige,' a dish made from urad dal batter, though it was unfermented and unsteamed. The 1130 AD Sanskrit text 'Manasollasa' describes 'Iddarika,' small spiced balls of urad flour, also without fermentation. However, the timing of idli's emergence, between 800 and 1200 CE, aligns with Indonesia’s royal connections to southern India. It is interesting to note that even ancient India may not have had dedicated idli vessels. As the Chinese traveler Xuan Zang noted in the 7th century, this could mean the Indonesian influence may have introduced not just the technique but also the required equipment.
The Doodle Celebration
On October 11, 2025, Google honored idli with a special Doodle. This doodle featured a steaming banana leaf platter with soft white idlis, accompanied by bowls of chutney, sambar, and a golden medu vada. This Doodle captured the essence of South Indian cuisine and was a visual story of comfort and community. The design celebrated millions of people who begin their day with this meal. The Doodle tribute highlighted the simple elegance of South Indian cuisine and its global appeal. It is loved for being light, wholesome, and versatile. It has travelled from the kitchens of Tamil Nadu to breakfast tables in London, New York, and Sydney, becoming a global symbol of Indian simplicity.
A Global Breakfast
The journey of idli reflects the broader story of cultural exchange in food. While India may have perfected the art of idli-making, its origin could be traced to Indonesia. The dish's evolution reveals how culinary traditions can blend through historical interactions. The dish has travelled from the kitchens of Tamil Nadu to breakfast tables in London, New York, and Sydney, becoming a global symbol of Indian simplicity. A chef in London once struggled to make idlis with yeast, but he reverted to the traditional overnight fermentation process. This highlights the importance of traditional methods and the cultural significance of idli.
