A Culinary Surprise
In the late 19th century, Indian royal feasts were often envisioned with rich Mughlai flavors, aromatic biryanis, and decadent curries. However, a recently
unearthed dinner menu from January 31, 1897, completely upends this common perception. This particular menu details a grand banquet hosted by the Maharaja of Baroda at the opulent Lakshmi Vilas Palace, honoring the Maharaja Scindia of Gwalior. The historical document, digitized from the New York Public Library's archives by historian Neha Vermani, paints a picture of a royal palate that embraced European haute cuisine with remarkable enthusiasm. Far from a typical Indian spread, this elaborate meal was a testament to the growing cosmopolitanism within elite Indian households during the British Raj, demonstrating that European culinary trends had significantly influenced even the most prestigious Indian kitchens by the end of the Victorian era.
French Elegance Dominates
The Maharaja of Baroda's meticulously planned menu for his esteemed guest was a masterclass in French gastronomic artistry, with subtle Italian influences weaving through the courses. The repast commenced with 'Iotage d’Amandes,' a delicate almond custard or flan, setting a tone of refined indulgence. Following this was 'Poisson Braisé avec mayonnaise sauce,' a perfectly braised fish dish accompanied by a luscious, creamy mayonnaise. The opulence escalated with 'Crème de Volaille aux Truffes,' a luxurious chicken cream soup profoundly infused with the earthy aroma and taste of truffles, a clear indicator of ultimate sophistication. The main savory courses continued the European theme: 'Cotelettes de Mouton à l’Italienne' presented herb-infused lamb chops prepared in an Italian style, and 'Selle de Perdreau rôtie aux Petits Pois,' featuring roasted partridge served with sweet green peas. The inclusion of game, a hallmark of European aristocratic dining, seamlessly integrated into the Indian royal setting.
A Single Indian Nod
Amidst the impressive array of French and Italian delicacies, the menu offered a single, carefully placed nod to Indian flavors. This concession appeared in the form of 'Curry de Macédoine de Légumes et Riz,' a vegetable curry served with rice. It's significant to note that this was not a robust, iconic Indian dish like butter chicken or dal makhani, but rather a more subtle, perhaps milder, curry. This singular Indian offering suggests a deliberate effort to incorporate local tastes without overshadowing the predominantly European culinary experience. The inclusion of this solitary curry dish, in a meal otherwise dominated by Western techniques and ingredients, highlights the nuanced approach taken by the royal kitchens to balance international trends with their own heritage, proving that even a single dish could represent a connection to home.
Sweet Indulgences
The grand feast concluded with a delightful array of desserts designed to satisfy any sweet craving. The dessert course brought the dining experience back to a place of comforting, rich indulgence, reminiscent of classic European sweet preparations. 'Pommes à la Crème,' featuring apples lovingly cooked in a rich cream sauce, offered a warm and soothing conclusion. This was followed by 'Glace de Pistachio,' a pistachio ice cream that, even by today's standards, sounds incredibly appealing and timelessly delicious. The combination of creamy, fruit-based desserts and the cool, flavorful ice cream provided a perfect end to a multi-course meal. These sweet offerings, while fitting the European theme, also showcased a universally appreciated approach to dessert, emphasizing simple yet decadent ingredients to create memorable final impressions.
