Whispers of Gold and Caution
The narrative begins with an old legend from Sand Rock, Alabama, about a hidden gold cache atop a formidable sandstone pinnacle. Two brothers, driven by
the allure of riches, attempted the perilous climb. While they reached the summit, the return journey proved fatal for one, and the other succumbed to starvation, stranded above. This cautionary tale, though likely embellished, served as a potent warning against reckless ambition. Today, the same pinnacle, now known as Deadman’s Pinnacle, features a well-trodden 5.6 route, a stark contrast to its legendary past. This anecdote sets the stage for a deeper exploration of how stories and places evolve, often retaining their usefulness beyond their literal truth, much like the enduring resonance of seemingly apocryphal warnings embedded in local lore and landscape.
Shakespearean Echoes and Vigilance
The article draws a parallel between ancient warnings and contemporary acts of vandalism through a Shakespearean inscription. While the authenticity of Shakespeare's epitaph, "Good friend for Jesus’ sake forbeare, To dig the dust enclosed here. Blessed be the man that spares these stones, And cursed be he that moves my bones," is debated, its sentiment resonates. The author recounts encountering a misquoted version of this epitaph spray-painted on a rock face in Sand Rock, a fresh act of defacement amidst ongoing cleanup efforts by local climbers. This juxtaposition of a literary warning and modern graffiti underscores the continuous struggle to preserve natural and historical sites. The photograph taken of this scene became a pivotal inspiration for Kornylak's book, "Spare These Stones," which aims to celebrate Southern climbing culture while also serving as a stark reminder of the constant vigilance required to protect these precious landscapes.
The Enigmatic James Litz
The story transitions to the legendary, almost mythical, figure of James Litz, a Tennessee climber renowned for establishing some of the nation's most challenging and rarely repeated routes. Kornylak recounts his initial difficulty in photographing Litz, described by a collaborator as a "ghost." Litz operated on the fringes of the climbing community, his ascents, often scattered across remote Southern locales, becoming known as "unrepeated Litz problems." These climbs were characterized by extreme difficulty, sparse holds, and complex moves, demanding exceptional skill and dedication. Rob Turan, a climbing ranger and writer, was instrumental in connecting Kornylak with Litz, having known him since Litz was a young prodigy, first establishing groundbreaking routes like "Whatsherface" at Obed Wild and Scenic River.
Pushing Boundaries at Lilly Boulders
James Litz's impact is profoundly felt at the Lilly Boulders, where he developed a remarkable concentration of extreme bouldering problems. Starting in his teenage years, Litz, often exploring solo due to the remote nature of the area and challenging interactions with local wildlife, pushed the standards into V10 territory with climbs like "Litz Blitz," "Mean Squeeze," and "Johnson City." As other climbers eventually matched his feats, Litz would return to elevate the difficulty further. His legacy at Lilly Boulders now includes V12 and V13 testpieces such as "Testify," "Tilted World," and "Chinese Arithmetic." This dedication to continuously advancing the sport's limits in Southern climbing locales established him as a formidable force, inspiring generations of climbers with his groundbreaking ascents.
The Challenge of 'Warpath'
The pursuit of Litz's climbs extended beyond the South, drawing attention to his notoriously difficult boulder problem, "Warpath," at Castle Rocks State Park in Idaho. Kornylak and fellow climber Josh Fowler spent a week attempting to film attempts on "Warpath," a V14 problem that involved a complex, spiraling traverse and a powerful face climb. Despite the efforts of elite climbers like Dave Graham, Jimmy Webb, and Daniel Woods, the full ascent remained elusive on camera, leading to frustrating filming sessions. Daniel Woods eventually repeated "Warpath" off-camera, leaving Kornylak to film a fictionalized reenactment to capture the essence of this challenging Litz problem, further cementing its legendary status in the climbing world.
Stewardship and Lasting Messages
Kornylak's journey through Southern climbing culture culminates in a reflection on conservation and responsible exploration. His book, "Spare These Stones," aims to be more than just a celebration of climbing; it's a testament to the community's efforts in preserving these unique landscapes. He emphasizes the fragility of pristine areas and the impact of human activity, advocating for a "leave no trace" ethos. The author highlights the importance of being stewards of the land, not merely visitors, to ensure these wild places endure for future generations. The personal encounter with James Litz, who shared the philosophy that "privacy is more important than fame," further underscores the quiet dedication and intrinsic motivation that define many in the climbing community.
