The Colonial Promenade: The Mall Road
Our walk begins on the iconic Mall Road, now officially Govind Ballabh Pant Marg, which runs parallel to the shimmering Naini Lake. Constructed by the British between 1841 and 1885, this was the epicentre of colonial social life. It connected the two
ends of the town, Mallital (the head of the lake) and Tallital (the foot of the lake). In its heyday, there was an unwritten rule: the upper road was for the British, while the lower was for Indians. This promenade was designed for leisurely strolls, horse rides, and socialising among the ruling class escaping the summer heat of the plains. Today, it’s a vibrant hub of hotels, restaurants, and shops, but the colonial-era architecture of many buildings still whispers tales of its past, a time when Nainital was the cherished summer capital of the United Provinces.
Gothic Echoes Among the Deodars
A short detour from Mallital leads to the serene premises of St. John in the Wilderness Church. Established in 1844, it is one of the earliest buildings in Nainital. Its name comes from the Bishop of Calcutta, Daniel Wilson, who fell ill while visiting to lay the foundation and had to sleep in an unfinished hut in the surrounding forest. The church itself is a classic example of Neo-Gothic architecture, with beautiful stained-glass windows imported from Belgium. Inside, a brass plaque serves as a somber memorial, bearing the names of the 151 victims—108 Indian and 43 British—of the devastating 1880 landslide that reshaped the town. The quiet graveyard behind the church holds the remains of early European settlers, making it a poignant stop on our historical tour.
A Palace Fit for a Governor
Perched on a hill with a commanding view is the magnificent Raj Bhavan, or Government House. Built in 1899 and designed by architect F.W. Stevens in the Victorian Gothic style, it was intended to be the summer residence of the British governors. Its architecture is often compared to a Scottish castle or even Buckingham Palace, featuring striking turrets and pointed arches. Spread across 205 acres, the estate includes a sprawling 18-hole golf course, one of the oldest in India. The two-storeyed mansion contains 113 rooms and was constructed with a blend of grey marble, dolomite limestone, and rich teak wood. After independence, Sarojini Naidu became the first Governor of Uttar Pradesh to reside here, marking its transition from a symbol of colonial power to a seat of Indian governance.
The Hunter's Humble Abode
Not all of Nainital's history is about grand colonial structures. A walk to Ayarpatta Hill reveals Gurney House, the charming former cottage of the legendary hunter-conservationist and author, Jim Corbett. Built in 1881, the cottage was constructed using materials from the Corbett family's previous home on Alma Hill, which was damaged in the 1880 landslide. This is where Corbett and his sister Maggie lived until they departed for Kenya in 1947. Though now a private residence, it has been preserved as a museum, offering a glimpse into Corbett’s life. His reading lamp, fishing rods, and other personal effects remain, creating an intimate connection to the man who famously traded his gun for a camera to champion conservation in these very hills.
The Spiritual Heart of the Lake
Our walk concludes at the spiritual nucleus of the town, the Naina Devi Temple. Located on the northern shore of the lake, this revered shrine is considered one of the 51 Shakti Peeths in Hindu mythology. Legend holds that this is the spot where the eyes (or 'nayan') of the goddess Sati fell when Lord Shiva carried her charred body. The original temple, first mentioned in the 15th century, was completely destroyed in the catastrophic landslide of 1880. It was faithfully rebuilt in 1883 on the new ground formed by the landslide debris, an area now known as 'The Flats'. Worshipping the goddess in the form of her eyes, the temple is a powerful symbol of faith and resilience, and the very reason for Nainital's name.
