Imagine sleeping with your head in Switzerland and your feet in France. In the alpine village of La Cure, this isn't a dream; it's a nightly reality at the Hôtel Arbez Franco-Suisse, a charming hotel that truly straddles two nations.
A Stroke of Genius on the Border
The story of the Hôtel
Arbez begins not with an innkeeper, but with a clever businessman named Monsieur Ponthus. In 1862, France and Switzerland signed the Treaty of Dappes to resolve a border dispute. The new boundary was set to run directly through the village of La Cure, and a key clause stated that any existing buildings straddling the line would remain undisturbed. Seizing his chance before the treaty was ratified the following year, Ponthus hastily constructed a three-story building precisely on the future border. He initially operated it as a grocery store on the Swiss side and a bar on the French side, creating a unique cross-border enterprise from day one.
From Shop to Hotel
In 1921, the building was purchased by Jules-Jean Arbez, who converted the unique property into the hotel that still bears his family's name. Today, the Hôtel Arbez Franco-Suisse, or L'Arbézie, is a cozy, two-star establishment popular with skiers and travellers seeking a one-of-a-kind story. The international border, often marked by a subtle line on the floor or wall, runs directly through the dining room, kitchen, and several guest rooms. This means you can dine at a table where your plate is in France and your friend's is in Switzerland, all while being served from a kitchen that operates in two countries simultaneously.
Sleeping in Two Nations
The hotel’s most famous quirks are found in its bedrooms. The honeymoon suite features a bed that is perfectly bisected by the border, allowing couples to cuddle across an international line. Another room has its bed entirely in Switzerland, but the bathroom is in France, requiring a brief international trip just to brush your teeth. The main staircase is also divided; the lower steps are in France, but from the seventh step upwards, you are in Switzerland. This unique layout isn't just a novelty; it has played a significant role in history.
A Haven in History
During World War II, the hotel’s divided nature took on a life-saving purpose. While German soldiers occupying France could enter the French side of the hotel, the Swiss side remained neutral territory. Because the staircase to the upper floors began in France but landed in Switzerland, the upstairs rooms became inaccessible to the occupiers. This technicality turned the hotel into a safe haven for refugees and members of the French Resistance, who used the Swiss portion of the hotel to escape persecution. Later, in 1962, the hotel's neutral ground was used for preliminary negotiations for the Évian Accords, which led to the end of the Algerian War.
The Practicalities of a Divided House
Operating a business in two countries comes with unique logistical challenges. The company that runs the hotel, SARL Arbez Franco Suisse, pays taxes to both France and Switzerland. The hotel has two restaurants, one offering more traditional French multi-course meals and another with Swiss-style fare like fondue and rösti. For guests, the experience is seamless. Thanks to the Schengen Agreement, moving between the French and Swiss parts of the hotel requires no passport check. The hotel’s location in the Jura Mountains also makes it a perfect base for exploring the natural beauty and outdoor activities of both nations.
