A Different Kind of Chai
Forget everything you know about the creamy, masala-laden chai found across most of India. Sulaimani chai is its lighter, clearer, and tangier cousin, served without a drop of milk. Brewed to a radiant amber or golden colour, this tea is a simple yet
elegant concoction of black tea, hot water, and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Its soul lies in the subtle infusion of whole spices like cardamom, cloves, and cinnamon, which lend it a fragrant warmth without overwhelming the palate. Often garnished with a fresh mint leaf, it’s a drink designed to refresh, cleanse, and soothe.
A Legacy of Maritime Trade
The story of Sulaimani chai is steeped in the history of Kerala's Malabar Coast and its ancient maritime trade links with the Arabian Peninsula. It is believed to have evolved from 'ghava', an ancient Arabic beverage consumed by Prophet Mohammed, made with dates and black pepper. As Arab traders frequented the Malabar ports for centuries, this drink travelled with them. Over time, the local culture adapted it, replacing dates with sugar and infusing it with local spices. Eventually, black tea was added to the mix, and the Sulaimani was born. The name itself, meaning 'man of peace' in Arabic, is said to be a tribute to the harmonious relationship between the Arab merchants and the people of Malabar.
The Perfect Post-Meal Ritual
In Kerala, particularly within the Malabar region's Mappilah Muslim community, Sulaimani chai holds a special place as the quintessential after-meal drink. It is almost mandatory after a heavy feast, especially a rich biryani. The combination of light black tea, warm spices, and the acidity of lemon is believed to be a powerful digestive aid, helping to settle the stomach and cut through the richness of the food. This is why you'll find it served in tiny glasses at the end of weddings, festivals, and celebratory meals, a cherished ritual that provides a light and comforting conclusion to a grand feast.
An Artful and Simple Brew
Making Sulaimani chai is a straightforward art. It begins with boiling water and infusing it with lightly crushed whole spices like cardamom, cloves, and a stick of cinnamon. Some variations also include fresh ginger or mint leaves. After the spices have released their aroma, the pot is taken off the heat and black tea leaves are steeped for just a minute or two; over-steeping is avoided to prevent bitterness and maintain the tea's light character. The tea is then strained and sweetened to taste, traditionally with sugar, before receiving its final, crucial ingredient: a generous squeeze of fresh lemon juice, which gives the tea its signature bright flavour and golden hue.
More Than a Drink, a Cultural Symbol
Sulaimani chai is more than just a beverage; it’s a symbol of Malabar's unique cosmopolitan heritage and hospitality. It has been immortalised in Malayalam literature and cinema, most famously in the movie 'Ustad Hotel', where a character explains that every glass of Sulaimani must contain a bit of 'mohabbat' (love). This sentiment captures the essence of the drink—it's about warmth, connection, and taking a moment to pause. In a country of countless tea traditions, the Sulaimani stands out as a simple, soulful brew that offers a taste of history in every sip.
