What Exactly Is Toum?
Toum, which simply means 'garlic' in Arabic, is a powerful and pungent condiment popular across the Levant. At its heart, it is a simple mixture of fresh garlic, a neutral-flavoured oil, freshly squeezed lemon juice, and salt. Despite its short ingredient
list, it transforms into a thick, white, and fluffy spread that many compare to aioli or mayonnaise. Unlike most mayonnaise and many modern aiolis, however, traditional toum is entirely vegan, containing no eggs whatsoever. It is traditionally served alongside grilled meats like shish taouk, shawarma, or as a dip for bread and vegetables.
The Science of Emulsification
The magic behind toum’s transformation from a few simple liquids and a solid into a creamy whip is a process called emulsification. An emulsion is a mixture of two liquids that normally don’t mix, like oil and water. Think of a simple salad vinaigrette: no matter how hard you shake it, the oil and vinegar will eventually separate. To make them stay together, you need an 'emulsifier'—a substance that can grab onto both the oil and water particles, holding them in a stable suspension. In mayonnaise, the lecithin in egg yolk acts as this emulsifier. In toum, the garlic itself plays this crucial role.
Garlic: The Unsung Hero
When garlic is crushed or blended into a fine paste with salt and lemon juice (which is mostly water), its microscopic particles and natural compounds are released. These particles, including various proteins and complex carbohydrates called fructans, become suspended in the watery lemon juice. These components are the key. As you slowly—and this is the most critical part—drizzle in the oil while constantly blending, these garlic particles work to encapsulate the tiny droplets of oil, preventing them from clumping together and separating. The result is a stable, airy mixture where millions of oil droplets are suspended within the garlic-and-lemon-juice base, creating that thick, creamy texture.
Patience Is the Final Ingredient
Anyone who has attempted to make toum at home knows that the process is a true test of patience. The key to a successful emulsion is adding the oil incredibly slowly. Adding the oil too quickly overwhelms the garlic’s ability to act as an emulsifier, causing the sauce to 'break' or separate into a disappointing, oily mess. Whether using a traditional mortar and pestle or a modern food processor, the technique is the same: the oil must be introduced in a very thin, steady stream, or even drop by drop at the beginning, while the mixture is continuously being agitated. This gradual process gives the garlic particles time to properly suspend the oil droplets, building the structure of the sauce bit by bit until it becomes thick and fluffy.
Tips for Perfect, Fluffy Toum
For those brave enough to try making toum, a few tips can help ensure success. Using very fresh garlic is essential, and some cooks recommend removing the small green germ from the center of each clove, which can impart a bitter taste. Using a neutral oil like canola, grapeseed, or sunflower oil is also key, as a strong-flavoured olive oil can overwhelm the sauce and make it bitter. Some recipes also call for adding a small amount of ice water during the process, which can help keep the mixture from overheating in the food processor and aids in creating a fluffier final product. If your toum is too strong, letting it rest in the refrigerator for a day or two can help mellow the intense garlic flavour.
