The Rise of a Complex Routine
First, let's break it down. The 10-step routine, popularised by K-beauty, is a philosophy of layering products. It typically includes an oil cleanser, a water-based cleanser, an exfoliator, toner, essence, serum, a sheet mask, eye cream, moisturiser,
and finally, sunscreen. The goal is thorough cleansing and intense hydration to achieve a radiant, 'glass skin' look. While it introduced beneficial concepts like double cleansing and consistent sun protection, the rigid, multi-product approach has drawn skepticism from dermatologists. They argue that skin health is not proportional to the number of products used.
Why More Can Be Less for Your Skin
Layering ten different products daily can be counterproductive. It can lead to irritation, disrupt the skin's natural barrier, and even cause breakouts, especially when multiple active ingredients are mixed without understanding their compatibility. For many, this leads not to better skin, but to sensitivity and confusion. A 2024 survey of Indian dermatologists found a significant increase in barrier-related issues like dryness and redness, directly linked to such complex, multi-active routines. The core issue is that the skin is a self-regulating organ that often responds best to consistency and balance, not an onslaught of products.
The Indian Climate and Skin Context
India's predominantly hot and humid climate is a major reason why a heavy, layered routine often fails. Thick creams and multiple layers can feel heavy, fail to absorb properly, and clog pores, leading to discomfort and acne. Celebrity makeup artist Namrata Soni notes that in Indian humidity, you can start sweating after the very first step, trapping perspiration between layers. Furthermore, Indian skin is typically higher in melanin, making it more prone to hyperpigmentation and tanning. This means a routine should prioritize targeted treatments and robust sun protection over sheer volume of products.
The Expert-Approved 'Skinimalism' Approach
Dermatologists are increasingly advocating for 'skinimalism'—a minimalist approach that prioritises essentials. Instead of ten steps, the focus is on a foundational routine of 3-4 key steps, often called the CMS (Cleanser, Moisturiser, Sunscreen) or CTM-P (Cleanse, Treat, Moisturise, Protect) method. This framework ensures the skin's basic needs are met consistently without overwhelming it. The consensus is clear: a simple routine you follow daily is far more effective than a complicated one you do inconsistently.
Building Your Essential Indian Skincare Routine
A powerful and practical routine for most Indian users can be distilled into four core pillars. First, a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser used morning and night to remove grime without stripping the skin. Second, a targeted treatment like a Vitamin C or Niacinamide serum to address specific concerns like pigmentation or dullness. Third, a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturiser to hydrate the skin and support its barrier, even for those with oily skin. Finally, the non-negotiable step: a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 (though SPF 50 is often recommended) applied every single morning, even on cloudy days or when indoors.
Placing the 'Extra' Steps
This doesn't mean you have to throw away your exfoliants and masks. Instead of being daily requirements, think of them as weekly or bi-weekly treatments. Exfoliation, using gentle chemical exfoliants like AHAs or BHAs, is best done 1-2 times a week to remove dead skin cells. Similarly, sheet masks or clay masks can be used as-needed for a boost of hydration or deep cleansing. This intentional approach allows you to give your skin what it needs, when it needs it, without the daily burden and potential irritation of a 10-step regimen.
