The Sacred Start: Bhog Khichuri
No Durga Puja experience is complete without partaking in the bhog, the food offered to the goddess before being distributed to devotees. The star of this divine meal is the Bhoger Khichuri, a simple yet profoundly flavourful preparation of roasted moong
dal and fragrant gobindobhog rice. This isn't your everyday khichdi; it's a vegetarian, no-onion, no-garlic dish cooked with vegetables like peas and potatoes, and lightly spiced. Served in community pandals, often on salpata plates, it’s typically accompanied by labra (a mixed vegetable curry), beguni (brinjal fritters), and a sweet chutney. The act of sitting in rows with hundreds of others, sharing this meal, is a core community experience of Pujo.
On The Move: Pandal Hopping & Street Snacks
Pandal hopping—the tradition of visiting various artistic Puja pandals across the city—is an all-night affair, and it requires fuel. This is where Kolkata’s legendary street food scene takes over. Every pandal vicinity buzzes with stalls selling an array of snacks perfect for eating on the go. The undisputed king is the Kathi Roll, a flaky paratha wrapped around a filling of egg, chicken, or mutton, with onions and sauces. Then there’s Phuchka, Kolkata’s beloved version of golgappa, which offers a burst of tangy, spicy flavour in every bite. Other must-try street eats include Ghugni (a spiced pea curry), various deep-fried chops and cutlets, and Kolkata-style chowmein, all serving as delicious companions between pandal visits.
The Sweet Surrender: A Mishti Marathon
In Bengal, no celebration is truly whole without sweets, or 'mishti'. During Durga Puja, sweet shops are brimming with an overwhelming variety of classics. The iconic Rosogolla, soft, spongy balls soaked in light sugar syrup, is a must-have. Another favourite is Sandesh, a delicate sweet made from fresh cottage cheese (chhena), which comes in many flavours, from saffron-infused to those made with nolen gur (date palm jaggery). And one cannot forget Mishti Doi, a creamy, fermented sweet yogurt that provides a perfect, cooling contrast to the spicy street food. Enjoying these sweets after a long night of pandal hopping is a cherished ritual.
The Modern Feast: Biryani's Festive Takeover
While traditional Bengali food remains at the heart of the festival, the modern Pujo plate has made ample room for biryani. What started as a royal dish has become a festive staple, especially on Navami and Dashami, the last two days of the puja. Kolkata-style biryani is distinct for its subtle spices and the signature inclusion of a whole potato and often a boiled egg, alongside tender meat. Iconic restaurants see massive queues, and it has become a popular choice for family feasts at home. This embrace of biryani, alongside other Mughlai dishes like kebabs, shows how the city’s culinary landscape during Pujo reflects both its deep-rooted traditions and its cosmopolitan palate.
