The Westfjords: Ultimate Isolation
The Westfjords peninsula is Iceland at its most remote and raw. Reaching it requires a commitment; the drive from Reykjavík to the region's main town, Ísafjörður, can take six to seven hours. The roads here are narrow, winding, and often unpaved, demanding
your full attention. While a 2WD vehicle may suffice on main routes in summer, a 4x4 is highly recommended for peace of mind, especially for accessing highlights like the Látrabjarg bird cliffs or Rauðasandur's red-hued beach. The reward for this challenging drive is a profound sense of isolation. You can explore dramatic fjords, witness the thunderous cascade of Dynjandi waterfall, and spot puffins without the usual throngs of tourists. The drive itself becomes part of the adventure, a slow journey through landscapes that feel largely untouched.
The Eastfjords: Coastal Beauty Minus The Buses
Often overlooked by those speeding along the Ring Road, the Eastfjords offer a quieter, more scenic coastal experience. This region is characterized by tranquil fishing villages, dramatic mountains plunging into narrow fjords, and the unique chance to see wild reindeer, the only place in Iceland they roam. The drive involves winding along coastal roads that hug the fjords, like routes 92 and 96, revealing hidden coves and stunning vistas at every turn. Towns like Seyðisfjörður, known for its arts scene, and Borgarfjörður Eystri, a puffin-watching paradise, reward those who take the detour. While the main roads are paved, allow extra time as the journey is about the scenic stops, not speed. Exploring here means swapping the tour bus rush for a slower rhythm, discovering local culture and hikes like the trail to Hengifoss, Iceland's third-tallest waterfall.
The Highlands: A True Summer Adventure
The interior of Iceland, known as the Highlands, is an uninhabited volcanic plateau accessible only for a few months in summer. Reaching this wilderness requires a 4x4 vehicle by law, as you'll be navigating gravel mountain tracks known as F-roads, some of which involve river crossings. Popular destinations like Landmannalaugar, with its colourful rhyolite mountains and natural hot springs, and the hiker's paradise of Þórsmörk, are the main draws. The drives are long and rugged, and there are no towns or fuel stations, so every trip must be carefully planned. Yet, this is the ultimate trade-off. In exchange for significant preparation and challenging driving, you gain access to some of Europe’s last great wilderness areas, with landscapes of black sand deserts, glaciers, and geothermal valleys that feel otherworldly.
Beyond the Golden Circle: The Silver Circle
For those short on time but still seeking a quieter alternative to the main tourist trail, the Silver Circle in West Iceland is an excellent choice. Located closer to Reykjavík, this route includes powerful waterfalls like Hraunfossar and Barnafoss, the historic site of Reykholt, and Europe’s most powerful hot spring, Deildartunguhver. It offers a rich mix of saga history and raw landscapes without the convoy of tour buses that define the Golden Circle. While the destinations are impressive, the drive itself through Borgarfjörður is a highlight, offering a soulful and less-travelled path. It proves that you don't always need to drive for days to escape the crowds; sometimes, a different direction is all it takes.
