Islands    •   9 min read

Nestled In Portugal's Quiet South Is A Dreamy River Town With Seafood, Olive Groves, And Cobbled Calm

WHAT'S THE STORY?

Town of Alcácer do Sal with white buildings along the river

Just an hour's drive south from Portugal's colorful capital, Lisbon, lies a lesser-known gem of a town rich in ancient traditions and offering a more relaxed pace of life. The town is also popular for its local cuisine, particularly fresh seafood and olive oil from groves in nearby Vale de Arca. Alcácer do Sal has just 14,000 residents and overlooks the Sado river, once a significant route for transporting local produce such as olive oil and wine during the Roman Empire. The town has a long and storied

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past: Remains found in the town date all the way back to the Neolithic period. Over the next centuries, Roman, Moorish, and Phoenician civilizations left their marks on the area, leaving behind a rich tapestry of culture, architecture, and archaeology.

Cobbled paths from the medieval period weave through narrow streets, flanked by sun-bleached buildings with colorful wrought-iron balconies. The elegant, whitewashed buildings, with their distinctive, red-tiled roofs, cascade down below the town's most dominant feature: Castelo de Alcácer do Sal, an imposing medieval fortress towering 200-feet-high over the surrounding landscape. This castle was constructed over the remains of another one built by the Almohads, a Berber confederation that established an Islamic empire in North Africa and modern-day Spain and Portugal during the 12th and 13th centuries. The town derives part of its name from the fortress, as "al-qasr" is an Arabic word that means "the castle," while the word "sal" alludes to the salt marshes that border the nearby Sado estuary. 

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Life In The Slow Lane In Alcácer Do Sal

Inside the Church of Santiago in Alcácer do Sal

Travelers may prefer to visit Alcácer do Sal in the summer and fall months when they can bask in the warm weather and take advantage of the extended daylight hours. The warmer seasons are also perfect for long, leisurely strolls. In the late afternoon, when it's not too hot, head to the historic old town and walk around Largo Pedro Nunes Square, dominated by the grand town hall. Then make the short walk to the 18th century Church of Santiago, with its gleaming white facade and two bell towers — a beautiful sight to behold during an evening jaunt along the promenade. It's also worth stepping inside the church to admire the stunning interior adorned with blue and white tiles illustrating the lives of Saint James and the Virgin Mary.

As one of Europe's oldest towns, Alcácer do Sal has some fascinating historical sites, like this other quiet Portuguese town that's also a history-rich escape. Follow the cobblestone streets up the hill to Castelo de Alcácer do Sal and admire some breathtaking views of the Sado River and surrounding countryside, dotted with pine woodlands and rice paddies. The fortress is free to enter, and you can admire the remnants of what was once an imposing structure with 30 towers and a large keep. There are several areas to explore, including a Roman site and the Castle Archaeological Crypt, where you can view traces of a human settlement dating back almost 3,000 years.

Where To Eat And Stay In Alcácer Do Sal And Things To Do In The Surrounding Area

View of Castelo de Alcácer do Sal

When you get hungry, head to one of the excellent seafood restaurants along the waterfront in Alcácer do Sal to savor hearty dishes of seafood stew made with razor clams. Sample popular dishes such as choco frito, a regional delicacy of fried cuttlefish that is often served with a side of asparagus mixed with breadcrumbs. In terms of booking a place to stay, Alcácer do Sal has several villas and hotels along the riverfront. Alternatively, there are a few lovely guest houses available to rent in Monte do Olival, just a 12-minute drive from the old town of Alcácer do Sal. One of the secluded guesthouses in Monte do Olival is surrounded by olive trees and fields full of grazing sheep and cattle, perfect for enjoying moments of stillness and tranquility. With dreamy scenes like this, it's no wonder Portugal is considered the best place to retire in all of Europe.

Just a 20-minute drive from Alcácer do Sal is Praia da Comporta, a sandy oasis some call the Hamptons of Europe. The laidback beach town on the Alentejo coastline has a lovely stretch of soft, powdery sand that gently slopes into the azure waters of the Atlantic, ideal for a refreshing swim. Just remember that while summer temperatures often hit 86 degrees, the ocean here is on the cooler side. This beach is a popular spot for horseback riding, with some guided tours offering a combination of riding and local wine tasting. The summer months can get quite crowded here, so if you are looking for seclusion, consider visiting in the early spring.

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