North Carolina is the queen of diverse road trips: From the coastal layers of the Outer Banks on Highway 12 to Blue Ridge Parkway -- America's favorite drive -- curling around the state's majestic western mountains to the Tail of the Dragon, a dramatic ride through the Smoky Mountains that's particularly popular with motorcycle riders, it's a perfect destination for road trip enthusiasts. But there's another, lesser-known North Carolina road that's so whiplash wind-y that illegal moonshine makers
once used it as a secret getaway to evade crackdowns during Prohibition. Nicknamed Moonshiner 28, State Highway 28 picks up where Tail of the Dragon -- U.S. Route 129 -- ends at Deals Gap, North Carolina. It winds 103 miles southeast through Franklin and Highlands before cutting into Georgia, then South Carolina, and finally ending in Walhalla. Along the way, expect hairpin curves, epic mountain vistas, secluded lakes, incredible waterfalls, historic homes, and even (legal) distilleries, all found just off the beaten path.
North Carolina's moonshine history runs deep. Even before federal Prohibition (1920 until 1933), it enacted its own statewide alcohol ban in 1908. This long dry spell sparked a flourishing underground trade and a legendary culture of backwoods distilleries and getaway routes. Highway 28 was especially helpful for Bible Belt bootleggers because it spanned state lines, allowing them to stay a step ahead of the law.
Although Tail of the Dragon's claim to fame is containing "318 curves in 11 miles," as Deals Gap Motorcycle Resort proclaims, Moonshiner 28 is a hidden gem with just as many "twisties," turns, and tantalizing views, but far smaller crowds. While Tail of the Dragon has become so popular with adrenaline junkies that highway officials have cited increasing accidents and urged increased caution, Moonshiner 28 is the road less traveled and a great all-seasons asphalt cruise.
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Make Stops For Scenic Vistas And Treasure Hunting
Moonshiner 28's two lanes curve through mountains, sometimes hugging sheer cliffs and rocky drop-offs. Veering off-lane, even slightly, can be dangerous or deadly. But as one writer put it, "It's not a make-time route; it is a rider's enjoy-the-feeling route." Although the first leg of the journey is only about 60 miles -- from Deals Gap to Franklin -- savor every curve. Gas up whenever you can, as several cafes and stations have closed post-2020 and refueling opportunities can be sparse. Along the way, detour slightly for sweeping views of Fontana Dam overlooking Fontana Lake and Great Smoky Mountains National Park. As you leave Fontana, you'll hit multiple twisties and a thrilling, 300-foot elevation drop in under a mile.
As you continue past Rainbow Falls, down into the Stecoah Valley, visit the Stecoah Valley Cultural Center for live bluegrass music, artisan workshops, and local history. Further on, Iron Horse Motorcycle Resort is a favorite with bikers, offering dining and lodging options from tent camping and cabins to covered wagons. Cowee was once celebrated for clay used to make Wedgewood china, a favorite of European royals, and gemstones, as Cowee Creek was once mined for rubies and sapphires. Many mines are now closed to the public, but, closer to Franklin, Old Cardinal Gem Mine and Mason's Mine remain open to visitors.
As you approach Franklin, watch for when the road turns into a four-lane highway. According to travelers, the state's highway patrol monitors the area for speeders coming off the mountain. Although Highway 28 has been restored to bypass downtown Franklin, you should turn onto Main Street so you can explore the shops, restaurants, and historic sights, including the old jailhouse-turned-museum. Have a beer at Lazy Hiker Brewing or a riverfront brew at Currahee Brewing Co. before spending the night at McTernon Manor, a historic 1888 house.
Waterfalls And Whiskey Are The Perfect Way To Celebrate A Trek Down The Moonshiner's Trail
There are only 20 miles separating Franklin from Highlands, but it's worth taking your time traveling them. After spending the night in Franklin, the next leg of Moonshiner 28 incorporates North Carolina's Mountain Waters Scenic Byway, a summer road trip in its own right. U.S. Route 64 and N.C. Highway 28 converge from Franklin to Highlands, passing the stunning Cullasaja Gorge -- part of the Nantahala National Forest -- with Cullasaja Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, Dry Falls (which you can walk behind without getting wet), and Quarry Falls, aka Bust-Yer-Butt Falls. At each one, you can pull over and hike in, swim, or just clear your mind for a bit. Dry Falls also has a walkway and restrooms, making it a perfect pit stop. In October, this stretch of Moonshiner 28 explodes in color, brightening the path in fall foliage.
When you reach Highlands, where a major moonshiner showdown supposedly once occurred, you'll reconnect with Highway 28. You can spend the night at Skyline Lodge, a beautiful mountaintop resort. For the final 30 miles, continue south into Georgia and follow Moonshiner 28 all the way to Walhalla, a small mountain town known as South Carolina's "garden of the gods."
If you want the real moonshine flavor of Moonshiner 28, consider detouring to (legal) distilleries in Gatlinburg, Tennessee, just 60 miles northeast of Deals Gap -- and the start (or end) of your Moonshiner 28 journey -- to award-winning Ole Smoky Moonshine Distillery, with a plethora of moonshine flavors. Alternatively, from Franklin, you can take a side trip onto US-276 toward Cedar Mountain for just over 60 miles until you hit Cedar Mountain Moonshine, which is known for small-batch moonshine touted as the highest-proof in North Carolina.
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