Venice, the legendary city on water, has been one of the cultural and commercial capitals of Europe for a millennium, serving as an inspiration to countless writers, poets, and painters. It brought the world the famous Murano glass, the first paperback books, and even introduced perfume as we know it to Europe. With its winding serpentine canals and magnificent palazzos, it is no surprise that the Serenissima, thus nicknamed for her diplomatic and conflict-avoidant disposition, has been a tourist
hub for centuries. However, the lagoon has much more to offer besides the Floating City, and nearby spots like Burano, a Venetian island with neon-hued buildings and no crowds, offer a wonderful opportunity to leave the bustling streets behind to get some fresh sea air and peaceful views of the water. But the quiet, green island of Sant'Erasmo would be a local's prescription to catch your breath and feel sand beneath your feet.
A stark contrast to Venice's ancient metropolis, Sant'Erasmo is referred to as the city's "Market Garden." Full of peaceful fields, orchards, and sandbanks, the island offers you the opportunity to leave your shopping bags, museum brochures, and dolce vita attire behind. Rather, pack a picnic basket, your camera, and grab the vaporetto waterbus for a short joyride on the emerald waters of the Adriatic.
Located at the mouth of the lagoon and the Adriatic Sea, the largest of all the islands in the area, the sparsely populated Sant'Erasmo has much to offer for a day-long excursion. Think of planning it out like a three-course meal: an appetizing walk around its gardens, a midday break in the shade at one of its restaurants, and finish off your day by cooling off with a dip at Bacan Beach, a beloved favorite amongst Venetians that is outside the tourist's radar.
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Sample Purple Artichokes And Cycle Around Sant'Erasmo
Named after Saint Erasmus, the patron saint of sailors, Sant'Erasmo has been considered the vegetable garden of Venice, supplying the inhabitants of the lagoon's isles with herbs, vegetables, and wine as far back as the 16th century. The Veneto region's terroir is recognized worldwide for its prosecco, making it one of the best wine destinations in Italy, yet the more obscure torbolino wine is feted yearly on the island with its own festival every October. However, it is a thistle flower, not wine, that is the island's most prized contribution to local gastronomy. Sant'Erasmo's famed purple artichoke is a cherished favorite that also holds its own harvest festival near the Massimiliana tower fort.
After you have stretched your legs either on foot or on a rented bicycle, exploring the island, you can make your way to the previously mentioned Torre Massimiliana. Located at the southwestern tip, it is an imposing remnant of a time when the Austrians descended from their Alpine domains and occupied the former Republic of Venice. The neighboring restaurant of Al Bacan boasts 4 stars with over 900 reviews at the time of writing, and specializes in local dishes such as seafood and the famed purple artichoke (when in season between the months of April and June).
Should you seek solitude in nature and birdsong, you can continue north-east on the Via dei Forti and reach the wildest part of the island with views of the neighboring Cavallino island. Located roughly 2 miles from the Massimiliana tower, your senses will be soothed as you make your way through Sant'Erasmo's beloved garden patches and vineyards. The northernmost area of the island also offers a thickly shaded path, accessible by bike, and views of locals' seasonal orchards for a quiet respite from their beloved city.
Beach Therapy And Getting To Sant'Erasmo
Surely you haven't traveled to Sant'Erasmo to only hike up a sweat or to stuff yourself silly on purple artichokes. The neighboring islands of the lagoon boast many iconic stretches of sand, such as the ones found on the island of Lido, with its serene beaches and storied streets of the Venetian bourgeoisie. Yet since idyllic, locally-favored peace is what you seek, the Spiaggia del Bacan, located just south of the Massimiliana tower fort, will be the obvious choice. Once there, you will be able to mingle with visibly more relaxed locals and soak your feet in the sea.
Depending on the season of your visit, the Venetian lagoon varies in temperatures, with averages of 82 degrees Fahrenheit during the summer months and cooling down to comfortable, yet humid lows of 45 degrees Fahrenheit during wintertime. In consideration of those factors, you can either prepare for cool maritime weather or dress down in summer gear as you would for a beach day, a towel and sunscreen packed along with your picnic basket. As the population of Sant'Erasmo is currently only around 700 at the time of writing, accommodations are sparse, and staying within the city of Venice is recommended.
Getting to and around Sant'Erasmo is straightforward and accessible from Venice. It is serviced by the local public service of the ACTV vaporetto Linea 13, which departs from the Fondamente Nove terminal and takes roughly 20 to 30 minutes to arrive at the Cappannone stop on the northwestern side of Sant'Erasmo. Obtaining a Venice ACTV vaporetto pass is the sensible budget option to get around with, and you should consider its selections from a 1 to 7-day pass, which will allow you to travel to and from all the surrounding lagoon islands.
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Read the original article on Islands.
