No one ends up on Wisconsin's Rock Island by accident. Here, there are no cars, no roads, and no shops. Instead, you'll find forest, water, and time, stretched out a little longer and quieter than usual. While some people may find this inconvenient, for the right kind of traveler, it's the whole point. Getting to Rock Island State Park, which the island fully encompasses, means taking two ferries, one from the Door County mainland to Washington Island, and then a smaller vessel called the Karfi.
The two-ferry trip may be a bit daunting, but whatever stress manages to survive the journey is guaranteed to evaporate by the time you approach Rock Island. Once you've arrived, you'd be forgiven for thinking that you've stepped back in time. No cars are allowed here, and to give you a sense of how committed the park's management is to preserving the silence, even bikes are forbidden. The quiet surroundings invite you to stroll at an 18th-century pace across the island's roughly 900 acres, which host 10 miles of hiking trails, rocky and sandy beaches, and meditative views of Lake Michigan's grey-cerulean waters. It's also home to the state's oldest lighthouse.
If Washington Island is "where Door County people go to remember what Door County used to be," as Matt Poole, manager of the Washington Hotel on Washington Island, once told The New York Times, Rock Island is Door County as it was before people were around to remember it. And along with Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, arguably the Midwest's most majestic collection of islands and beaches located just a few hours away, Rock Island State Park offers some of the most serene natural beauty the entire region has to offer.
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Hiking, Camping, And Swimming On Rock Island
The first thing you'll notice upon arrival at Rock Island is Thordarson Boathouse, a stately blue limestone structure of crisp geometry and hand-laid walls that feels almost out of place amid the lack of human presence here. Built by the Icelandic-born inventor Chester Thordarson in 1929, it's the only real architectural flourish among the handful of buildings on the island. Not exactly a ruin, the boathouse feels like a quiet monument to our desire to shape — and be shaped by — the wild. Its historical significance has led to it being listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and visitors can view the gorgeous inner great room. Though it's technically a public space, weddings are occasionally held here, and it's easy to see why.
From there, the trails beckon. The longest of them all is the Thordarson Loop, which loops around the island in just over 5 miles. The mile-long Fernwood Trail cuts through the island's center and links the east and west shorelines, while the Havamal Trail takes you south. The Algonquin Nature Trail begins near the island's main campground area, which is located a short distance from the boathouse on the island's south side. Here, you'll find 35 of the island's 40 walk-in campsites, with the remainder found on the southeastern shore. These campsites come equipped with a fire ring and picnic table.
The Thordarson Loop offers the most wonder for your walk, leading you past sandy and pebble beaches, contemplative cemeteries, scenic overlooks, and the Pottawatomie Lighthouse. Built in 1836 on a 129-foot bluff, the lighthouse looks out over the north side of the island. Volunteers staff the lonely lighthouse throughout the year, which is open to visitors from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily, Memorial Day through Columbus Day.
Planning A Trip To Rock Island
Getting to Rock Island is part of the adventure. The beautiful scenery of Wisconsin's Door County is connected by one incredible coastal byway, which starts to the north of the nearby waterfront city of Sturgeon Bay, itself a mecca of Midwest beauty and adventure. The byway will lead you to the town of Northport, where the Washington Island Ferry (which carries bikes and cars) departs. From Washington Island, you'll hop aboard the Karfi, a smaller, passenger-only ferry. Visitors can purchase combo tickets that include a trip from the mainland to both Washington Island and Rock Island. Ticket prices are higher if you're bringing camping equipment, and space fills quickly, so make sure you arrive at the ticket booth early.
Rock Island State Park itself is open year-round from 6 a.m. to 11 p.m. If you're camping, remember that it's pack-in, pack-out, so make sure you have everything with you, whether you're arriving or departing. Firewood can be purchased seasonally at the park. For a smooth trip or camping experience, be sure to bring sturdy walking shoes, layered clothing for warm and cold weather (nights can get chilly, even in the summer), bug spray, and headlamps or flashlights for after dark.
There are restrooms and drinking water near the dock, but no camp store, so plan meals in advance. If camping isn't your thing, Washington Island has plenty of cozy lodging options, from B&Bs to cabins to more affordable motels and inns. Rock Island is a world apart that, for centuries, has called all kinds of different individuals to its shores. That's because it's not so much a destination as it is a reset. And like all resets, you tend to need one more than you realize.
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Read the original article on Islands.
