Islands    •   10 min read

Spain's Hidden Wine Region In Basque Country Is A Vineyard Hopping Haven With Ocean Views And Dining

WHAT'S THE STORY?

Txakoli vineyard with a sea view in background

If you haven't been to the Basque Country, you probably aren't familiar with a special wine called txakoli. Pronounced cha-co-lee, it's a slightly carbonated white wine that is crisp and dry, pairing perfectly with light dishes like fish or pintxos (an elevated Basque bar snack.) With origins going as far back as the 9th century, txakoli was traditionally made in farmhouses for personal consumption or to share with neighbors. It wasn't until the late 1800s that it gained popularity, extending to local

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bars. It took another 100 years for txakoli to get its spotlight with three designations of origin in the 1980s.

The three official denominations of origin for txakoli are: Getariako Txakolina, Bizkaiko Txakolina, and Arabako Txakolina. In the charming fishing village of Getaria, where the majority of txakoli is produced, nearly 90% of it comes from the Hondarribi Zuri grape. The remainder comes from Hondarribi Beltza grapes. The most popular area for visiting txakoli wineries, the Getariako Txakolina denomination spans the towns of Getaria, Zarautz, Zumaia, Hondarribia, and Aia, with 16 wineries available to visit.

A whopping 90% of the txakoli grapes grown in Getariako Txakolina are grown by the coast and benefit from a unique micro-climate that helps the Hondarribi Zuri grapes thrive, giving them a distinct flavor. When sampling txakoli, you'll notice that it's poured from an elevated height, allowing the wine to "break" and aerate, enhancing its subtle fizziness. Almost always white, txakoli can also be a rosé, and very rarely, a light red. In a bar, you may be served txakoli in a wine glass or, in more traditional spots, it may simply be served in a flat-bottomed, wide glass. Either is fine — what's more important is how it's poured.

Read more: The 13 Most Beautiful Destinations In The World Sadly Ruined By Overtourism

Plan A Wine Tasting Tour In Getaria, The Heart Of Txakoli Production

Pouring txakoli with the port of Getaria in the background

Spain contains many regions to enjoy highly-praised wine. In Getaria, you have the most options for wineries to visit. Txomin Etxaniz is one you will almost always find on local menus and in the grocery store, and is one of the oldest producing wineries in the area. Dating back to 1649, this family-run winery has a range that includes traditional txakoli, a rosé, a sparkling rosé, and Tx, a different take on a txakoli without carbonation. The family also owns a cozy little pintxo bar in the heart of Getaria with a terrace opposite the Church of San Salvador. Called Tx, after their specialty wine, this is an excellent place to sit and have a drink and enjoy the camaraderie among locals who gather regularly. 

Since 1923, four generations of the Lazkano family have been making txakoli at Gaintza. Rooted in sustainability, the family uses sustainable agriculture methods, recycled materials, and water-based ink for their labels that are sourced from mineral paper. When you go for a visit, you can try three txakolis and three pintxos for just under $30. The family also operates a boutique hotel at the vineyard, so you can make it your base and stay awhile. 

Ameztoi is another lovely option for a winery and hotel in one combo. Located slightly up the hill from Txomin Etxaniz, the views are spectacular from the rooms and the tasting terrace. The Ameztoi family has been gathering friends and community over wine for five generations, and they've created a comfortable environment for guests to visit and settle in. They also offer several guided tour options and packages.

Where To Taste Txakoli Outside Of Getaria

A view of Zarautz beach and hillside

Outside of Getaria, there are several wineries included in the Getariako Txakolina denomination. In Zarautz, a cute surf town neighboring Getaria, you can pair wine tasting with surf lessons. At Talai Berri, one of two sisters will give you a guided tour of their winery that goes back five generations. For a very reasonable $20, you can receive the history of the winery, a wine tasting, and a sampling of local delicacies like Idiazabal cheese, local tuna, and sausages. They even have a package for kids, at half the price of adults.

In the hills just above Zarautz, Rezabal is a vineyard with a sprawling property that is also popular for weddings and private events. Ocean views make this an idyllic place to linger over a glass of their txakoli, paired with pintxos. In the hills on the opposite side of Zarautz, Basa Lore makes a traditional white and rosé txakoli, in addition to a specialty bottle they call the "grandfather of the winery." They describe it as having an "aroma of white flowers with a velvety finish with green edges."

In Hondarribia, 30 minutes away from Getaria, closer to the border of France, Hiruzta is the vision of a father and his two sons. A blend of the Basque words Hiruren and Uzta, Hiruzta means a "three-person harvest." The Rekalde family created a beautiful property where locals and visitors gather to taste their wines, tour the vineyards, and eat and drink in their outdoor tavern in the vineyards. Hondarribia is actually where the closest airport, San Sebastian Airport (EAS) is located, literally across the street from the winery, so it's the perfect place to start or end your journey to the food and wine haven that is the Basque Country.

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