If you asked, many people would probably decline an invitation to hike up 450 stairs in the wind and rain. However, they might change their tune after seeing the Cuilcagh Boardwalk Trail, nicknamed the "Stairway to Heaven," as I did. It is located in the Cuilcagh Lakelands UNESCO Global Geopark and stretches through both County Fermanagh in Northern Ireland (which has no crowds and low prices, per Samantha Brown) and County Cavan in the Republic of Ireland. It was the first of this kind of protected
site in the world to straddle two countries. The misty, sheep-laden landscape is full of limestone caves, rolling hills, loughs (Irish for lakes), and one of the largest blanket bogs in Northern Ireland.
To receive the designation of geopark, a landscape must have a significant geological heritage. UNESCO defines them as "landscapes of international geological significance ... managed with a holistic concept of protection, education and sustainable development." At Cuilcagh Lakelands, you can see the balance of preservation and public enrichment incorporated throughout the park.
One of the best places to learn about the geopark is at the Marble Arch Caves Visitor Centre, where you will find guided tours, informational videos, knowledgeable staff members, and educational displays. I explored the dripping, dungeonous cave by boat and on foot, and even attended an underground sound bath deep in its chambers. Elsewhere in the park, you'll find a scattering of ancient historic sites: homesteads, castles, religious ruins, and grave sites. Cuilcagh Lakelands Geopark really brings the thunder, as you hike one of Europe's most stunning boardwalk trails, explore striking underground formations, learn about early human history, and immerse yourself in a rare bog ecosystem found in few other places on Earth.
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Head To Cuilcagh Lakelands And Climb The Stairway To Heaven
Getting to the Cuilcagh Boardwalk Trail is a bit of a warmup in itself, starting with a 2.8-mile walk along a gated-off gravel road before you even reach the first boardwalk plank. From here, the narrow ribbon of wooden slats leads you on a gentle incline across the marshy, verdant landscape. The boardwalk is not only great for Instagram photos, but it also protects the fragile bog beneath , which has been building for millennia. The peat, moss, and heather all come together to create a lush, sodden sponge that stores carbon and regulates water flow. Be careful as you hike, bogs can be dangerous. They are unstable, slick, and full of water, so make sure to keep your boots on the boardwalk.
It's about 4 miles from the start to the viewing platform (making it around 6.8 miles total). Depending on the weather and how often you pause, expect anywhere from 2 to 5 hours on the trail. The route feels steady at first but gets tougher near the end, where you rise steeply up Cuilcagh Mountain, bringing you to a wooden platform perched at the mountain's summit ridge. While ascending, I often stopped to catch my breath and to look out over the otherworldly landscape cradling the trail.
The weather shifted every few minutes, beginning with rain and wind, then trading clouds for sudden sunbursts that lit up the loughs below. By the time I reached the platform at 2,188 feet, the wind was fierce and my legs burned, but the panoramic view was so worth it. From the summit, you can see for miles across the borderlands, where Ireland and Northern Ireland meet in rolling hills, bogs, grazing sheep, and open sky.
Planning Your Visit To Cuilcagh Lakelands
Most visitors start their geopark journey at the Marble Arch Caves Visitor Centre, about 12 miles from Enniskillen and 95 miles from Belfast. If you're driving from Dublin, the capital of Ireland, known for its "irrepressible spirit," according to Rick Steves, plan for about a 2-hour journey. For the hike, parking is available at the main trailhead car park (which can be booked online), and spaces can fill up quickly on weekends and in summer, so an early start is best. There is a second lot, called Killykeegan Nature Reserve car park, located less than a mile from the path, and it has restrooms available.
Bring waterproof layers, sturdy walking shoes, water, and snacks. The trail is free to access, but Marble Arch Caves tours and special activities, like the underground sound bath, require advance booking. Before you set off, grab a scone and coffee at LillyAnnes inside the visitor center -- you can thank me later.
If you are not interested in hiking, Northern Ireland has plenty of no-hike scenic viewpoints you can check out instead. But if you're making the trip to ascend the Stairway to Heaven, consider making it a weekend trip and staying nearby. Enniskillen and Cavan offer everything from cozy B&Bs to upscale hotels. A stay at the Killyhevlin Lakeside Hotel and Lodges in Enniskillen, with its classic feel, luxe modern amenities, and lakefront views, makes it easy to recover from an active day. Giving yourself extra time allows you to explore more of the geoparks' caves, lakes, and heritage sights at a slower pace, rather than rushing through one of the most unique landscapes in Europe.
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Read the original article on Islands.
