Mexico's Caribbean coast is a divisive place. With over 12 million people flocking to its shores in 2024 (via Mexico Business News), the region's crown jewel, Cancún, is both the most popular getaway for U.S. citizens and the named the worst tourist destination in the world. Once an almost utopian slice of sandy-toed heaven, Quintana Roo's tourism explosion has changed the experience drastically. The region still has some secrets, though — including Holbox, a stunning island haven flanked by idyllic
beaches and boasting some of the best birdwatching in the world.
Perched at the tip of the Yucatán Peninsula, where the Caribbean Sea meets the Gulf of Mexico, Isla Holbox has retained the laid-back Caribbean charm that first lured tourists to Mexico. Pronounced "hole-bosh" and stemming from the Mayan word for "black hole", Holbox is car-free, offers 22 miles (36 kilometers) of white sand beaches, and has a local community hellbent on ensuring their home isn't hit by the same surge of development as Tulum.
What truly sets Holbox apart is its wildlife. The birdwatching is outstanding, the island sits along the migration path of the largest fish in the sea — the whale shark — and it is one of the best places on the planet to witness the surreal bioluminescent glow of phytoplankton in the water. Holbox may be named for the dark-watered lagoon that separates it from the mainland rather than a celestial phenomenon, but it's one island that's hard to resist.
Read more: 12 Destinations And Attractions That Should Absolutely Be Considered Wonders Of The World
See The Wild Side Of Mexico In This Biodiverse Haven
Holbox was little more than a tiny fishing town as recently as the 1980s. The addition of a ferry in the early 1990s kickstarted an initial wave of tourists, but it wasn't until the last decade that significant development took place. Even so, growth has mostly been capped: Buildings taller than 40 feet are prohibited and roughly 75% of the island remains undeveloped. This preservation has helped make wildlife a core experience of a Holbox trip. Birdwatching, in particular, is a highlight, with skies and coastal areas teeming with flamingos, herons, frigatebirds, and over 145 additional species. You can take one of many birdwatching tours from Holbox, with the focal point being the nearby, uninhabited Isla Pájaros — Spanish for "Bird Island.". There's a viewing tower set up on the shore as tourists can't set foot on the island.
Visitors arriving between mid-May and September have the opportunity to experience something truly special: Encounters with the whale shark. The migration patterns of these gentle giants pass through waters near Holbox, where tours depart on a daily basis. The shallow, clear waters make it one of the best places in the world to swim with whale sharks, making for an unforgettable experience.
Tied to the presence of whale sharks is one of the island's most spectacular natural spectacles — its bioluminescent water. Set in motion by a chemical reaction between the plankton and the warm, moving water, Holbox's shores burst into a surreal neon blue haze at night. While it's possible to see it year-round, the best viewing occurs between May to September.
How To Get To And Plan Your Island Haven Getaway
While it is possible to charter a private flight to Holbox's small airstrip, the vast majority of visitors arrive via the ferry from Chiquilá. The trip to Chiquilá takes around 2 hours by bus or car from Cancún International Airport, which is the closest airport by more than an hour. The ferries depart every half hour between 6:30 a.m. and 8:30 p.m. and cost around 660 pesos ($34) for a round trip as of this writing.
Barring a few service vehicles, there are no cars on the island. The developed area around the main town is easy to explore on foot for short distances, while golf carts and bike rides are popular for longer trips. It's possible to rent a golf cart for personal use, but do note that island does not have paved roads. Holbox does, however, offer natural gems like Punta Mosquito, a secluded sandbank surrounded by shallow, crystalline waters where you can swim, relax, and even spot flamingos if you're lucky.
Holbox has a wide range of hotels, with more springing up regularly, but they are a far cry from the gargantuan resorts on the mainland. Staying true to the slice of pristine beach haven that draws visitors to Isla Holbox, most accommodations are smaller boutique properties. Even big names like Marriott have chosen a modest approach, opening an intimate, 30-room wellness resort. Many of these properties offer direct beach access. At night, the island comes alive with atmospheric restaurants and bars, without the chaotic nightlife scene found in Cancún and Tulum's strips.
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Read the original article on Islands.
