The name Holbox instantly conjures up images of the dreamy Mexican island on the north coast of the Yucatán Peninsula with white sand beaches, turquoise waters, and unforgettable sunsets. But what if we told you there's a restaurant in Los Angeles that can transport you to that very same island, bite by bite?
Tucked away inside Mercado La Paloma — an unassuming food hall in South-Central L.A. — Holbox might not catch your eye at first glance. It's one of several modest stalls within the Mercado, a vibrant
community space established in 1999 in response to residents of nearby housing developments who wanted to recreate the lively food markets of their home countries.
Among those small, simple stalls is a culinary gem run by chef Gilberto Cetina, Holbox. Since opening its doors in 2017, Holbox has garnered impressive recognition. It's the first marisquería in the U.S. to earn a Michelin star as well as the first to win one two years in a row. It was also named Restaurant of the Year in 2023 by the Los Angeles Times.
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Chef Gilberto Cetina Brings Yucatán Flavors To LA
Chef Gilberto Cetina, born in Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula, opened Holbox after spending 15 years working alongside his father at their family restaurant, Chichen Itza — also located in Mercado La Paloma and still serving up traditional Yucateco fare today. His connection to seafood started young, during trips to the serene Yucatán coast where he spearfished and dived for seashells. When his family moved to Los Angeles, Cetina continued to nurture that passion. With no formal training in cooking, his approach has always been intuitive and deeply personal, grounded in the flavors and ingredients of his heritage.
That authenticity hasn't gone unnoticed. Cetina was a 2023 James Beard Award finalist for Best Chef California and has become one of the most closely watched chefs in the country. At Holbox, he focuses on local, sustainable, and culturally authentic seafood, often sourced from lesser-known or emerging producers. "We also began a dry-aging program and now are aging 90% of our fish, utilizing every component of each product in novel ways," he told Forbes in an interview. "We hope we can continue surprising guests with our authenticity and quality in our humble setting that makes so much of what Holbox is."
What's On The Menu At Holbox?
The menu at Holbox is a love letter to the flavors of chef Gilberto Cetina's homeland. Inspired by the coastal cuisine of the Yucatán Peninsula, every dish aims to recreate the bold, vibrant tastes he grew up with while blending them seamlessly with the ingredients and culinary influences of Southern and Baja California. The chef's precision and creativity make Holbox one of the best restaurants in all of California.
This isn't a traditional sit-down restaurant. It's a casual counter-service spot where the food takes center stage. On the menu, you'll find everything you'd expect from a beachside marisquería in Mexico: ceviches, tostadas, aguachiles, seafood cocktails, and tacos. But while the spirit is Yucateco, the seafood is proudly local. Chef Cetina works with regional producers like Omega Azul to source ingredients like Baja kanpachi, bluefin tuna from Southern California waters, and wild-caught Mexican shrimp. The menu changes with the seasons and the arrivals of the day.
For those looking for a deeper culinary experience, Holbox also offers an exclusive eight-course tasting menu, available only on Wednesdays and Thursdays. It's a rare chance to experience the chef's creativity and craftsmanship in a more curated, intimate way. Take note that the restaurant doesn't serve alcohol or allow you to bring your own, so the focus stays where it belongs — on the food.
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Read the original article on Islands.
