For anyone road-tripping along the Côte d'Azur or the Italian Riviera, the luxury of coastal resorts like Saint-Tropez or Portofino, while glamorous, rarely comes cheap. These opulent tourist hotspots often fall short of offering the kind of everyday "dolce vita" that many ordinary Italians actually live. Finding that slower, more authentic rhythm is something worth experiencing, even briefly, on any dream Euro trip.
Travelers flying into Nice, France's "Winter Resort City of the Riviera" situated
between the sea and mountains, or Italy's "La Superba," the affectionate nickname of Genoa, will find that both are within easy reach of Dolceacqua, a slower-paced destination that delivers the same scenic beauty without the high price tag of the more famous destinations in the area. Dolceacqua makes an ideal base for exploring some of the less-crowded, beautiful towns in the Liguria region, or can be a great option for an inland retreat, serving as a refreshing palate cleanser from the busier, sun-soaked coastline.
Getting to Dolceacqua is straightforward by public transport or car. The nearest station is in Ventimiglia (also known as Vintimille), which is well-connected by direct trains from both Nice and Genoa. From Nice, the train takes around an hour, and during the summer it's worth taking an early service, as trains can get busy. From Genoa, the journey is slightly longer, at about 2 and a half hours. Once at Ventimiglia, the number 7 bus runs regularly and takes less than 20 minutes to reach the haven of Dolceacqua.
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A Reward Awaits At The Top Of Dolceacqua's Hilltop
Dolceacqua's most significant landmark is the Doria Castle. The fortress, which sits above the Terra district, was first built in the 12th century and expanded over the years. A site of real interest, especially for budding historians, Doria Castle's layered history includes sieges, family rivalries, and serious damage during regional wars. It even suffered from a brutal earthquake in the late 19th century, leaving the castle in a state of disrepair once again.
Entry requires only a modest fee (around $7 USD, at time of writing), and from the upper terraces, visitors can take in breathtaking views of the Nervia Valley, panoramas thought to have inspired Claude Monet, who painted the nearby arched bridge he called "a jewel of lightness." Reaching the castle involves a gentle uphill walk through Dolceacqua's maze of narrow cobbled lanes, known as "sacagasse" in the local dialect. These alleyways preserve the village's medieval character and serve as an escape from the sunshine, as they gift passers-by with welcome shade.
From the town, there are several extensive trails that will let you explore the beautiful surrounding landscape. One of the shorter options among them is the challenging 4.7-mile-long Cima Tramontina via Dolceacqua loop, which takes you to a mountain from the river. In a translated review, one AllTrails user called it a "beautiful route with pleasant views." However, they did warn that there's "not as much shelter along the way so not recommended in very high temperatures."
Festival Gigs, Foodie Folklore And Farmhouse Charm
Spring and early autumn are perfect times to visit for those looking for some peace and quiet, as the weather remains warm but is not the most popular time of the year for holidaymakers to descend upon the town. Music fans flock across the region each February for one of the nation's biggest cultural events in nearby Sanremo. Dolceacqua is a perfect place to set up shop during the legendary Sanremo Music Festival. About a 13-mile drive away, those staying in Dolceacqua can be far enough away from the chaos that a major event like this brings, whilst at the same time, near enough to be able to dip in and sample some of the biggest icons of Italian music. Along the way, those looking for the perfect seaside town on the Italian Riviera for sunshine should stop off at Ospedaletti, one of the region's best-kept secrets.
While the event at Sanremo delights the ears, each August Dolceaqua's own Michetta Festival is a feast for the senses in a different way. Celebrating the traditional michetta pastry, this celebration commemorates an important local legend through its brioche-like pastry, which symbolizes female liberation. There is no shortage of accommodation options in Dolceacqua, each with its own unique charm. La Cicala Stonata offers homegrown extra virgin olive oil from its Taggiasca olive trees to sample, as well as a pool to relax in. Meanwhile, Agriturismo dalla Mimmi offers perhaps an even more rustic experience, especially in its farmhouse.
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Read the original article on Islands.
