Artistry Carried, Not Applied
Aartivijay Gupta's artistic philosophy centers on the idea that art is deeply embedded within her creations, not merely an afterthought or decorative element.
Her work is characterized by profound, enduring partnerships with skilled artisans, a testament to her belief that heritage, when approached with genuine respect and understanding, possesses an intrinsic value that transcends the need for modernization to remain pertinent. Instead of simply borrowing visual elements, Gupta's methodology involves a deep dive into the cultural contexts from which these motifs emerge. She strives to comprehend the historical narratives, the essence of repeated forms, the weight of collective memory, and the continuity passed down through generations. This foundational understanding allows her designs to resonate across diverse cultural landscapes, maintaining their integrity whether presented in local settings or on international stages.
Honoring Artisan Legacies
The cornerstone of Gupta's creative process lies in her research and sustained collaborations with artisans. These long-standing relationships have offered profound insights, revealing that for many craftspeople, their chosen skill is far more than a profession; it's a legacy woven into their very being, stretching back through four or five generations. It encompasses childhood recollections, a deep-seated affection for their craft, personal aspirations, and an unwavering dedication to the cultural heritage they are born into. Consequently, when embarking on collaborative projects, Gupta underscores the critical responsibility to ensure that both the artisans and their art receive the utmost respect and recognition they deserve. The intention is to faithfully represent the art in its authentic form, aiming to ignite a sense of wonder and curiosity among future generations, ensuring the preservation and appreciation of these invaluable traditions.
Globalizing Cultural Specificity
Gupta's SS25 collection, a vibrant collaboration with Kalighat artists from Midnapore, masterfully recontextualized historical art for a global fashion platform. When presenting her work internationally, she navigates the delicate balance between preserving cultural specificity and achieving universal appeal by acknowledging the inherent universality found within all historic art forms. She posits that individual interpretations are reflections of personal thought processes, upbringing, beliefs, and life experiences. While every individual might perceive different meanings, there's also an immediate relatability that connects diverse audiences. This perspective allows her designs to transcend geographical and cultural boundaries, fostering a shared appreciation for artistic expression regardless of one's background.
Sustainable by Design
Within Gupta's creative universe, sustainable development is intrinsically linked to the timeless nature of her art. Her pieces are designed to be enduring, often cherished and worn by clients for extended periods, thereby minimizing the cycle of consumption. Her initial international showcase in London marked a significant step into sustainability, particularly concerning fabric choices. Through a partnership with the Aditya Birla group, she incorporated Liva fabric made from recycled yarn, comprising 30 percent of her collection. This commitment is ongoing, with a deliberate strategy to progressively increase the proportion of sustainable materials in each subsequent collection, reinforcing her dedication to environmentally conscious practices within the fashion industry.
Prints as Narratives
Gupta views prints not as mere surface embellishments but as potent vehicles for storytelling. She believes that every heritage artwork possesses its own distinct language and a profound vision. Each piece contains an entire narrative, often stemming from the artist's lived experiences, their livelihood, or folk tales they have encountered. Therefore, every printed motif serves as a timeless visual story, embodying the very soul of the garment. She argues that structured designs or solid colors, while aesthetically pleasing, cannot possibly convey the depth of history, heritage, and craftsmanship that a print, imbued with an effortless narrative, can offer.
The Future of Fashion
Gupta identifies 'old global artisanal' as the most urgent and natural language shaping the future of Indian fashion. She asserts that India's cultural heritage is inherently global and represents true luxury, citing examples like hand silks, toosh, kalamkari, and hand-woven cottons as the authentic future of global luxury. In contrast, industrial production leads to overconsumption and significant waste, characteristic of fast fashion. Artisanal craftsmanship, on the other hand, fosters timeless, exclusive luxury. While local crafts can satisfy the Indian market, a global reach can generate more employment and broader recognition. The 'old' is rich with history, heritage, storytelling, craft, and soul, offering a depth that 'new' often lacks, resulting in shorter lifespans and less enduring curiosity.
